As problematic as the duo Domenico Dolce & Stefano Gabbana’s past may have been, it’s getting harder to dislike their work, especially as they improve with time. This latest collection easily ranks in my top three from the brand. There was honestly nothing about it that I didn’t like.
Their men’s collection, aptly named “Italian Beauty,” was a showcase of refined restraint and carefree concision. It paid homage to the debonair attitude of Italian men, embodying their effortless vanity and seductive self-presentation. Marcello Mastroianni, a master of such posture, was one of the collection’s clear inspirations.
While recent seasons saw Dolce & Gabbana tone down their typical opulence, this time they embraced a touch more embellishment, offering a nod to Italy’s flair for ornamentation but keeping it understated. The collection opened with boxy, short-sleeved shirts and blousons, crocheted from open-work natural raffia or soft leather that mimicked woven straw. These were paired with high-waisted, loose-fitting, pin-tucked trousers rolled at the ankles, capturing a sense of ease—a quality that resonates with the laid-back demeanor of Italians, even in hardship.
Dolce & Gabbana, renowned as some of the best tailors in the business, displayed their craftsmanship through softly constructed suits, subtly influenced by the formal bel vestire and decorum of the 1950s. Relaxed, fluid costumes in natural fabrics, predominantly off-white with hints of dark green, burgundy, and the ever-present “Sicily black,” flowed elegantly. Striped polo shirts, sleeveless sweaters, and knitted waistcoats, tucked into amphora trousers, added a summery vibe. The coral embroideries provided the collection’s decorative highlights, ensuring this was an ode to Italian artistry at its finest.
